Published by Aestiva | Aesthetic and Skin Clinic in Sidcup
Microneedling is one of the most effective skin rejuvenation treatments available today. But what many people don’t realise is that the serum used during the treatment can be just as important as the needling itself. The micro-channels created by the device allow active ingredients to penetrate far deeper into the skin than any topical product could achieve on its own, making serum selection a critical part of your results.
At Aestiva, we offer three evidence-based serum options: NCTF, Hyaluronic Acid (HA), and Exosomes. Each works differently, targets different concerns, and suits different skin types and life stages. This guide will help you understand what each one does — and which one is likely right for you.
Understanding the Role of a Microneedling Serum
When microneedling is performed, fine needles create thousands of controlled micro-injuries in the skin. This triggers the body’s natural wound-healing response, stimulating collagen and elastin production. But these same channels also act as a delivery pathway, allowing serums to bypass the skin’s outer barrier and work at a cellular level.
Choosing the right serum means matching the active ingredients to your skin’s specific needs — whether that’s deep hydration, structural repair, anti-ageing, or cellular regeneration.
Option 1: NCTF (New Cellular Treatment Factor)
What is it?
NCTF is a complex polyvitamin cocktail developed by Institut Esthederm. It contains over 50 active ingredients, including vitamins, minerals, amino acids, antioxidants, nucleic acids, and hyaluronic acid — all formulated to revitalise skin at a cellular level. It is one of the most clinically studied and widely used injectable and microneedling solutions in aesthetic medicine.
How does it work?
NCTF works by replenishing the skin’s nutritional environment — restoring the building blocks that cells need to function optimally. As we age, the skin’s extracellular matrix becomes depleted of these essential nutrients, leading to dullness, loss of elasticity, and slowed cell turnover. NCTF essentially re-feeds the skin from within, encouraging fibroblast activity (the cells responsible for producing collagen and elastin).
What does it treat?
- Dull, tired, or lacklustre skin
- Fine lines and early signs of ageing
- Uneven skin tone and texture
- Loss of firmness and elasticity
- Dehydrated skin that lacks vitality
Who is NCTF best suited for?
NCTF is an excellent choice for those in their late 20s to 50s who are beginning to notice the early or moderate signs of ageing, or those whose skin simply looks tired and lacks its former radiance. It is particularly well-suited to people who want a comprehensive, multi-action treatment rather than targeting one specific concern.
It is also ideal as a preventative treatment — if you want to maintain healthy, youthful-looking skin before significant changes occur, regular NCTF sessions can help sustain your skin’s vitality over time.
Best for: Skin revitalisation, anti-ageing, dullness, loss of elasticity, preventative maintenance.
Option 2: Hyaluronic Acid (HA)
What is it?
Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring molecule found in the skin, joints, and connective tissues. It is a powerful humectant — meaning it attracts and retains water — capable of holding up to 1,000 times its own weight in moisture. When used as a microneedling serum, pharmaceutical-grade HA is delivered directly into the dermis, providing immediate and sustained hydration at depth.
How does it work?
Topically applied HA can only penetrate the superficial layers of the skin. Delivered via microneedling, it reaches the deeper dermal layers where it can bind with water molecules and create a long-lasting reservoir of hydration. This plumps the skin from within, reducing the appearance of fine lines, improving texture, and restoring a healthy glow.
What does it treat?
- Dehydration and dryness (distinct from dry skin type)
- Fine lines caused by dehydration
- Rough or uneven skin texture
- Dull, flat complexion
- Post-inflammatory dryness (e.g. after acne, sun damage, or environmental stress)
Who is hyaluronic acid best suited for?
HA is the most universally suitable serum option, making it a strong choice across a broad range of ages and skin types. It is particularly well-suited for:
- Younger clients (20s–30s) who want to address dehydration and maintain skin health without more intensive interventions
- Sensitive skin types, as HA is biocompatible and very well tolerated
- First-time microneedling clients, as it provides excellent results with a straightforward, low-risk profile
- Anyone experiencing seasonal or environmental dehydration
- Those with reactive or compromised skin that may not tolerate more complex formulations
HA is also an excellent complementary serum when combined with other treatments, and is often chosen for clients who are building their skin health as a foundation before progressing to more targeted serums.
Best for: Hydration, sensitive skin, younger skin, first-time clients, texture improvement, dehydration-related fine lines.
Option 3: Exosomes
What are they?
Exosomes are extracellular vesicles — tiny messenger particles naturally produced by cells to facilitate communication between them. In aesthetic medicine, the exosomes used are typically derived from stem cells (commonly plant-derived or sourced from human adipose or bone marrow stem cells in clinical settings) and are rich in growth factors, proteins, peptides, and messenger RNA. They represent one of the most exciting and cutting-edge advances in regenerative skin science.
How do they work?
Rather than simply delivering nutrients or hydration, exosomes work by signalling to your skin cells — essentially instructing them to behave in a more youthful, regenerative way. They promote cellular repair, accelerate collagen synthesis, reduce inflammation, and support the skin’s natural healing mechanisms. Delivered through microneedling channels, they penetrate to where they can have the most meaningful impact.
The science behind exosomes is grounded in regenerative medicine, and research into their applications continues to grow rapidly. They are considered a significant step forward from traditional growth factor serums.
What do they treat?
- Significant skin ageing and loss of structural integrity
- Acne scarring and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
- Rosacea and chronic skin inflammation
- Hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone
- Slow-healing or compromised skin
- Post-procedure recovery and skin resilience
- Hair loss (when used in scalp microneedling)
Who are exosomes best suited for?
Exosomes are the most advanced and potent option, and are particularly well-suited to clients with more complex or established skin concerns. They are an excellent choice for:
- Those in their 40s, 50s, and beyond who are dealing with significant collagen loss, deep lines, or structural ageing
- Clients with acne scarring — exosomes are particularly effective at supporting tissue remodelling
- Those with inflammatory skin conditions such as rosacea, where calming the skin while promoting repair is the goal
- Anyone who has tried other serums and wants to progress to a more intensive regenerative treatment
- Clients seeking faster recovery and enhanced results following more aggressive treatments
It is worth noting that exosomes represent a premium treatment tier, reflecting both the complexity of the technology and the depth of results they can deliver.
Best for: Advanced ageing, acne scarring, inflammation, rosacea, hyperpigmentation, clients wanting maximum regenerative results.
Side-by-Side Comparison
| NCTF | Hyaluronic Acid | Exosomes | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Primary action | Cellular nutrition & revitalisation | Deep hydration | Cellular signalling & regeneration |
| Best age range | Late 20s–50s | All ages | 40s+ or complex concerns |
| Skin concerns | Dullness, early ageing, loss of vitality | Dehydration, texture, sensitivity | Advanced ageing, scarring, inflammation |
| Sensitivity level | Well tolerated | Excellent tolerance | Well tolerated |
| Results focus | Broad multi-action | Foundational hydration | Intensive repair & regeneration |
| Treatment tier | Mid-range | Standard | Premium |
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I combine serums? In some cases, serums can be layered or alternated across a treatment course. Your practitioner will advise on what combination best serves your skin goals.
How many sessions will I need? Most clients benefit from a course of 3–6 sessions, spaced 4–6 weeks apart, followed by maintenance treatments. The frequency may vary depending on the serum used and your individual response.
Is microneedling safe for all skin tones? When performed correctly, microneedling is suitable for a wide range of skin tones. However, certain conditions — including active acne, eczema, or a history of keloid scarring — may affect your suitability. A thorough consultation will always take place before any treatment.
Which serum gives the fastest visible results? Hyaluronic acid tends to show the most immediate visible improvement in skin plumpness and glow, as hydration effects are rapid. NCTF and exosomes work more deeply over time, with progressive improvements seen over several weeks as collagen remodelling occurs.
I’m not sure which serum is right for me — what should I do? The best way to make this decision is through a proper skin consultation. Your practitioner will assess your skin health, discuss your concerns, and recommend the most appropriate treatment pathway for you.
In Summary
There is no single “best” microneedling serum — the right choice depends on your skin’s age, condition, concerns, and goals.
- Choose Hyaluronic Acid if your primary concern is hydration, you have sensitive skin, or you’re new to microneedling.
- Choose NCTF if you want comprehensive skin revitalisation, are beginning to see signs of ageing, or want a proactive maintenance approach.
- Choose Exosomes if you have established skin ageing, scarring, inflammation, or want the most advanced regenerative option available.
At Aestiva, every microneedling treatment begins with a thorough consultation so that your serum choice is always clinically informed — not guesswork.
Ready to find out which microneedling serum is right for your skin? Book a consultation with us today.
Disclaimer: This blog post is intended for educational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. All treatments at Aestiva are carried out following a thorough consultation and individual assessment.